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HOW TO SPOT
A REPLICA!
THE
ROLEX GUIDE
INTRODUCTION
Genuine brand watches can cost anything from £500.00 to
£100,000.00, as most people cannot afford the real thing a much cheaper
alternative is to buy a replica.
Replica watches are, quite simply, imitations of the more
expensive brand named watches, at a mere fraction of the price. These
imitations have the same general look, feel and ability, at a much more
acceptable price.
The quality of a replica can vary depending on the cost. A
£20.00 replica would obviously be of a far better quality than a replica
costing £400.00 and much easier to identify.
This guide is mainly based on Rolex wrist watches as they
carry the largest number of replicas in the market place. Some Omega
examples are also included.
This guide will show you how to avoid the replicas, as it
states this is a guide and should be used for that purpose only. If you are
unsure of a watches authenticity then don’t buy it. The only way to be 110%
sure its not a replica is to be direct from a Rolex dealer.
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BOX & PAPERWORK
In order to consider purchasing a Rolex watch I would
recommend that it
MUST
have accompanying paperwork and a matching box. If the watch does not have
the box and paperwork I would personally not buy it.
Box & Paperwork
Example
Box
All watches when purchased come with a box. If you are spending a large
amount of money on a watch then you usually keep the box. The box will
usually be of a high standard either leather bound or wooden as shown in the
below example.
Most expensive watches have an inner better quality box with
a cardboard outer box.
Both the inner and outer boxes will usually have a symbol and
mark relating to the watch.
Some of the better quality replicas come with box and
paperwork, the font quality on the replicas will be of a poor quality and
can be worn or blurred.
A watch without its box can lose up
to 30% of its value, it is
therefore wise for the owner to keep it safe.
If the watch does not have a box then it probably is a fake.
Rolex Wooden Box & Cardboard Outer Box
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Paperwork
All watches when purchased have paperwork. Where the paperwork refers to
reference numbers and models these should be confirmed to match with the
physical watch. Paperwork can be in the form of the following:
A warranty card
 This
card holds reference numbers and purchase dates. The reference numbers
should match the reference found on either the back of the watch or strap.
Note that not all watches carry reference numbers.
A
Leather/Plastic documents wallet
 The
wallet holds all the paperwork relating to the watch. It is usually marked
with the watchmakers stamp and is in the same colour as the box.
An Operating
Instructions Booklet
 This
contains specific details about the watch such as changing the time and
date.
A Service
Centre Booklet
 Most
top brand watches have a service centre guide which shows you lists of
agents throughout the world.
A Receipt
This
will show when and where the watch was purchased; also it will show you
exactly how much was paid for the watch.
A Seal (Rolex)
All Rolex watches carry a Red Seal. Note the bright coloured
cotton and frayed ends on the replica. On some occasions a green seal is
also attached.
DIAGRAM
OF WATCH PARTS
REPLICA SPOTTING
The Origin
A Swiss based
company would not sell a watch that is made in Indonesia, so if you notice
that the watch's origin doesn't match the origin of the company, then the
chances are the watch is a fake.
The Band
The edge on a genuine watch will have a smooth edge; this is because the
band was made out of three pieces of metal. One rolled piece with two outer
edges.
With most cheap watches each link is made of a single piece of metal, which
is rolled to create the link. This is easy spotted as the edge of each link
is rolled like a “Swiss Role” and has a poor quality finish.
Replica
The Bezel
The Bezel if moved should line up exactly with the minute markers on the
dial. On a genuine both markers will line up perfect.
Genuine
Replica
The Second Hand
All Rolex watches will
have a sweeping second hand. If the second hand “tick tocks” then it is
definitely a copy.
The Rolex second hand should reach the second markers, if it is short by
2-3mm then it is a replica, the illuminated circle on the second hand should
hit the top of the 12 o’clock triangle exactly.
On most replica watches when the stem is pulled out, the second hand
continues to move. On a genuine watch the second hand should stop once the
stem is pulled out.
Genuine
Replica
Genuine
Minute Hand
Genuine Rolex
Yacht-Master models feature a "minute" hand, which is considerably
thicker than those on other Rolex sports models. However, to save money,
counterfeiters will often use the same hands found on the Submariner.
This can be easily identified when viewed side-by-side (as shown in the
example below).
Genuine Replica
Case Reference
Number
Probably the most accurate way to identify a
genuine/counterfeit Rolex watch is by locating the Serial and Case
Reference Numbers. These special identification numbers are engraved on
the side of the case, located between the lugs (as shown in the below
example). These reference numbers should match with the paperwork supplied
with the watch.
As you can see in the examples below, the engraving between
the lugs of a genuine Rolex feature very fine lines, which actually catch
the light similar to that of a diamond cut edge. However, (some)
counterfeits will feature a sandy (acid) etched appearance, as seen in the
example below. Furthermore, the spacing on these numbers is often too close
together. It is worth mentioning that counterfeiters frequently use the SAME
numbers on their watches. Thus, the example shown above: "R863698" is seen
quite often, and is a pretty good sign of a fake.
Genuine
Replica
A Brief Explanation of the Rolex Serial Numbering System
In 1927, Rolex began issuing every Rolex Oyster case a unique serial number
to distinguish them from one another. Around 1953, the numbers reached the
999,999 mark, at which time Rolex decided against adding a 7th
digit, thus continuing into the "millions"--Instead, they started the
sequence aver at
100,001.
Around this same time, Rolex had initiated another dating
system--They stamped the inside of the case back with a code consisting of a
Roman numeral and two numbers. The Roman numerals were I, II, III, IV, which
represented which quarter of the year the watch was produced. The numbers
simply
represented the two-digit year in which the watch was produced. Therefore,
the code III 53 would represent the 3rd quarter (i.e.
July-September) of 1953--this code continued until around 1970.
In the early 1960s, Rolex once again reached the 999,999
mark, but this time added a 7th digit and continued until mid
1987, when the numbering reached 9,999,999. At this time, Rolex elected to
start numbering with a letter prefix (e.g. R000001).
The system started with the letter "R", which was then
subsequently followed by L-E-X. Thus spelling
out the word "ROLEX" with the "O" being omitted, to help avert any possible
confusion with the number "0". This sequence continued through November
1991, when a new numbering system was introduced utilizing the
letters N, C and S, which took them through 1993. In 1994, Rolex started yet
another sequence with the letters: W, T and U, then A, P, and K in
subsequent years.
To add to the confusion, many
of these prefixes have run concurrently over the past few years, giving the
appearance of a random numbering system. Therefore, only Rolex knows
exactly when any particular watch was made and they aren't talking.
The following list is comprised of known serial numbers
for the years listed. By checking a particular serial number against this
list you should be able to date a watch with reasonable accuracy. However,
it is no guarantee as to when your watch was shipped from the factory.
The Font.
The fonts used for the numbers should align exactly with the second hand as
it passes over them. The numbers in the date bubble should be exactly in the
centre of the magnified Cyclops. On virtually all replicas the date will
either be high or low in the date window.
Genuine
Replica
The Number 4.
On a genuine Rolex the inside of the number 4 will be formed of 4 small
edges. If you look closely at the number 4 and see four distinct edges you
are looking at a replica.
Genuine
Replica
The Date Bubble/Cyclops
The Cyclops on a genuine Rolex watch will be magnified by 2.5. A replica
will have either no magnification or a very small amount of magnification.
On a genuine the date should practically fill up the Cyclops.
The Cyclops will also have a sharp edge where the Cyclops meets the crystal.
This is hard to see with the naked eye but can be felt quite easily by
running your fingers around the Cyclops.
Genuine Replica
The Crown/Winder
The crown on an expensive watch such as a Rolex will be made out of a single
piece of metal. On a fake watch the logo that is placed on the crown is
glued on after the watch is made. The small glued seem can be seen when
using an eyeglass. The crown will also have three small dots or a line as
shown in the picture.
Genuine Replica
Genuine
Rolex models featuring the Triplock crown (i.e.
Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Daytona) utilize an extra seal
within the threads of the winding crown's tube. This gasket resembles a
black o-ring and can be visible when the winding crown is unscrewed fully.
As shown in the example above, (most) counterfeit models will not feature
this o-ring seal, but rather will have basic screw-down threads. It is worth
mentioning that some new counterfeits will feature a "similar" looking
rubber seal, but upon closer examination you will see that it is merely
cosmetic, and is not functional.
Genuine Replica
The Pins
The pins holding the strap to the watch on a genuine will be threaded. If
you look through an eyeglass at the end of the pin you should see a small
slot for a fine flat head screwdriver.
Genuine
Replica
Logo
The band on a genuine Rolex will always have the Rolex logo. The absence of
this logo is a dead give away the watch band is a replica.
Genuine
Replica
The Case Back
An authentic Rolex will have a screw down back with exactly 144 small teeth.
You can only open a Rolex case with a special Rolex tool.
Reference Numbers will be etched in the positions as
indicated above by a red circle. If you see no reference numbers then the
watch is a fake.
To date Rolex have never made a watch with a clear or see
through back. This is also known as a skeleton back which allows you to view
the movement. These clear back watches are a common Rolex fake.
Replica
Rolex watches do not have engraved backs. Genuine Rolex
watches will have either a smooth case back or a smooth case back with a
hologram showing a reference number.
Replica
Text
All text found on either
the watch or box should be crisp and clear. Replica items will never have
the same quality as the original.
See in the below example how the font is completely wrong
on the replica. Note the extra thickness of the words Rolex and also the pin
prick holes in the crown.
The lines of the crown are also not crisp.
Genuine Replica
ROLEX MODELS
President
The president is made of three rows of gold links and
includes both a day of the week and a date window function with a 2.5 times
Cyclops except the ladies model which only have a date window. The President
is available in 18ct Gold, 18ct two tone gold, and Platinum. A
Super President is available which has a Diamond set bezel and band.
Approx: £3000.00 to £10,000.00.
Datejust
The Datejust is the best known model of Rolex watch and
was introduced in 1945. When the name Rolex is mentioned this is the model
most people immediately envision. The Datejust comes in a variety of dial
and bezel options including Diamond set. The Datejust is 36mm with a 2.5
Cyclops magnifier with a sapphire scratch proof crystal dial. It comes in
stainless steel, two tone stainless steel and in 18ct gold.
Approx: £3000.00 (Stainless) to £10,000.00 (Diamond).
Air King
The Air King is a very basic design as far as Rolex
watches go. The Air King is sleek with clean elegant lines. It is 34mm, is
available in only stainless steel.
Approx: £1500.00 to £5000.00
Oyster Quartz
The Oyster quartz is a rare Rolex with, as the name
suggests, quartz movement that requires a battery. The Oyster quartz is
available in stainless steel with Diamond bezel optional.
Approx: £1500.00 to £5000.00
Explorer I & II
The explorer was introduced in 1954 and is made of all
stainless steel. It has a 36mm case. Later the explorer II was produced, the
explorer II had a fourth hand which enabled the owner to keep track of a
second time zone. The dial has the date window and a 2.5 Cyclops. It comes
with a black or white dial.
Approx: £1500.00 to £5000.00.
Submariner
The Submariner is one of the most popular models of
Rolex. It comes available in four styles; stainless steel, two tone
stainless steel and 18ct gold. As the name suggests the Submariner is a
favourite diving watch. It is 40mm and comes with or without the date
window.
Approx: £1500.00 to £10000.00 (Gold)
Yacht Master
The Yacht Master comes in stainless steel and 18ct gold.
It has a date window with a 2.5 Cyclops date magnifier. The gold model has a
rotating Platinum bezel. The watch was designed for men or women.
Approx: £4500.00 to £10000.00
GMT Master
The GMT Master has the ability to track two different
time zones at the same time. It has a rotating bezel and 2.5 Cyclops. It is
available in stainless steel and 18ct gold. It can have a blue, red or black
bezel.
Approx: £4500.00 to £10000.00
Daytona
The Daytona is a distinctive and highly desirable watch.
The Daytona is a true chronometer with stopwatch and split time
capabilities. The bezel of the Daytona is engraved with hourly speed
markings that enhance the chronometer functions of the watch. The Daytona
chronometer buttons screw into the bezel. It is available in stainless steel
and 18ct gold. It can come with either a leather or 18ct white gold
band.
Approx: £5500.00 to £10,000.00.
OMEGA REPLICAS
As with most branded watches Omega also has a large following
of replica fakes.
As with Rolex, Omega is a branded quality watch and should therefore carry a
high standard of workmanship. The attention to detail should be perfect. All Omega’s come in a fancy inner box and cardboard outer
box. As with Rolex, Omega watches also can have fake box’s and
paperwork.
The replica companies sometimes completely mix up names
and features from completely different models, occasionally making up very
odd or nonsensical watches.
The below Omega Seamaster has many problems. At first
glance it looks fine but the face of the watch for this particular model
should have two extra dials. You can see we have the buttons for the dials
but no dials.
The date within the Cyclops bubble is not aligned correctly.
The bezel of the whole watch does not align up with hands.
Omega Seamaster
The below watch is Speedmaster Chronograph except once
again this watch has no dials or buttons.
The wording on the dial mentions Seamaster but the watch is a Chronograph.
Omega Chronograph
Below is the Omega Seamaster Pro James Bond Watch. It has
a GMT hand, which tells the time in more than one occasion. This watch is
not supposed to have this feature. On the fake watch below it does not even
move.
The watch itself is labelled with the name Ocean Master. Omega does not
produce this model.
Omega Seamaster James Bond Pro
The Omega Speedmaster
below is a scramble of watch bits. The bracelet, case and hands are
Speedmaster style. Extra GMT hand like off of a Flight master. Diver's
rating and second hand of a Seamaster Professional. The most obvious is the
Omega name on an applied plate.
Omega Speedmaster
A common giveaway on fakes Omega
watches is that the main part of their watch casings (excluding the bezel,
crystal, and back) are often noticeably thicker than the real thing. The
fakes can be as much as twice as thick and the real models they are trying
to resemble. Also notice that because the cases are so much thicker, that
the lugs that hold the bracelet or strap have to curve much more than on the
real ones to compensate for the added thickness.
Original Replica
Another major characteristic of authentic watches is
extreme attention to detail. Genuine Swiss watches don't leave obvious gaps,
crowd or otherwise poorly space or centre dial markings, have useless or
non-working buttons or markings, or forget to include required labelling.
Omega Seamaster with the display
back showing the watch is half hollow
Quick giveaway that the above is a
fake: it doesn't say "Swiss Made" on the dial. Also notice the same scales
are inanely duplicated on the dial and the inner bezel.
GENUINE OMEGA WATCHES
Omega Constellation
Generally considered to be Omega's flagship line. Starting in
the 1990's, the Constellation line adopted the highly contemporary look
originated by the Constellation "Manhattan" in the 1980's and is now Omega's
"style flagship" line.
Omega DeVille
Omega’s traditional dress watch line. After the Constellation
series changed focus to a style flagship line, the DeVille series has become
the horology flagship line.
The current DeVille line is divided into several series: the
DeVille Coaxial, DeVille Prestige, DeVille Symbol and DeVille Classic. Of
these, the Coaxial is the newest, featuring the Daniel's Coaxial
Escapement--the most significant advancement in mechanical wristwatch
technology in many decades.
The remaining series of DeVille models mostly use the same
movements used across most OMEGA model lines. The differentiation between
these DeVille series are the case and bracelet styles. The "Symbol" derived
its name from the first models in this design bearing art symbols--such as
the oriental Yin-Yang--on their dials.
Very few watches in this series bear the DeVille name on
their dials. The DeVille line keeps to very clean, classic designs. So dial
labelling is normally kept to an absolute minimum of one or two lines of
descriptive text. The DeVille Coaxial Limited Edition is the one notable
exception. OMEGA broke from their normal tasteful conservatism by issuing
the initial coaxial models with its dial cluttered with four lines of
descriptive text, including one over the OMEGA logo and name.
Omega Speedmaster
Originated in the late 1950's, the Speedmaster line of
chronograph watches was catapulted to fame by their selection by NASA for
use in manned space missions starting in the 1960's. The Speedmaster "Moon
Watch" is the best known and most enduring OMEGA model.
Omega Seamaster
Originating in 1948, the Seamaster series now represents two
distinct of high water resistant watches. The Seamaster 120 line continues
the classic dress-style. The Seamaster Professional series is a bolder, more
rugged, professional grade diving watch.
Omega Dynamic
A special line that OMEGA uses to introduce alternative
styles. The latest Dynamic models are the fourth series issued under the
Dynamic name, and were produced from 1998-2000. This release features two
models reviving the style of some of OMEGA's 1940's military watch designs.
Generally considered by OMEGA collectors to be greatly overlooked by the
watch buying public and one of the best values in new and near-new used
OMEGA watches currently available.
SOURCES OF INFORMATION
There are many sources available to you for finding out information about
watches. The largest being the Internet.
I would advice before purchasing a watch take the time to study watches in
jeweller’s.
Pick up as many brochures as possible and have a close look at some of the
watches available, try them on and get a feel for the originals. The
jeweller won’t mind if he thinks he is getting a sale.
Study the prices of old and new models, make notes and ask questions!
The best link I have
found on the Internet is shown below. It gives retail and second hand
prices.
http://www.watchfinder.co.uk/
An excellent source to
view the latest replica watches is shown below. This site gives excellent
quality close up pictures of copies and replicas.
http://www.ravereplicas.com
SOURCES OF INFORMATION
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www.rolex.com
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www.ebay.com
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http://chronocentric.com
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http://www.remixreplicas.com/
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http://www.fineluxurytime.com.cn/
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http://www.fullswiss.com/
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http://www.fakereviews.com/
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http://www.zenithmotor.com/
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